Normandy and the coast

As I begin the journey from Paris I stop in  Giverny that town of Monet, and see his home and fantastic garden.  So the post dedicated to this place.  I then proceed to travel Normandy a beautiful norther region of France.  I admit I did not spend enough time there.  I went to the town of Rouen. Famous for Joan Of Arc  Rouen.  Then to the coast along to Le Havre,  Trouville-sur-Mer, Deauville.  I just loved these coastal areas and being one of the few people there at the time it was magical.

Paris to Angers map and destinations

Rotisserie chicken at the Rouen market.  Notice the potatoes at the bottom soaking up all of the juices!  They have another with other roasts, proc and such.

The road this was the most vibrant green.  All of the rain is fertile for spring.

This was brilliant yellow.  this cloudy day doesn't do it justice, so bright.

the bridge connecting Le Havre to Honfleur

Monet's garden

A little detour on my way to Rouen.  For some reason the name Giverny sounded important to me while looking at the map.  As this road trip was particularly spontaneous I followed my instincts and low and behold Monet's garden.  I knew I knew it.  It was 5 pm and I was nearly alone here, a magical experience.  It was raining a bit but it was still a fairytale garden.

the town

the front of Monet's house

Cooking up a little something in Paris- Macarons and a walk in the rain.

Weather report for the next 10 days - rain-.  Dang it.  Ive been walking in it and strolling and enjoying myself between rain drops and sun bursts.  Today I took a Macaron making class.  fun! My chef teacher was at La Varenne Ecole de cuisine for years ( a school I attended in 1986) and was even there when I was so it was fun sharing stories about chefs past.  I actually found myself strolling around the old neighborhood in the 7th before class.  Small world.  It is feeing much smaller to me now after traveling.

I have to say I cooked at home tonight just too cold to go back out.  I nailed it!  fennel and leek soup,  simple and great.  wild mushrooms with cream and leeks and reduced to a yummy intensity, I just put it on bread.  oh my! So much for a light dinner.  I did follow it up with a green salad... All ingredients from a few local markets that i've been wondering around.

Macaron class at La Cuisine Paris cooking school. http://lacuisineparis.com/content/english-speaking-cooking-classes-in-paris

Classes in english are available, this one was taught by a former La Varenne chef grad and current chef.  Students fromUS, Paris, New Zealand and Australia and Me.

The egg whites after the sugar syrup went in, beautiful white and fluffy.

A special touch at the hotel

A special touch in the room.  The day I arrived I had an array of small purple Orchids, so perfect in fact I assumed them to be fake.  The next day I noticed a change and then realized these to be real.  So I am taking a photo of all of them as they change because I appreciate the touch so much.  This hotel is a lovely oasis from the chaos outside.  I don't think it is extreme traffic, having grown up in Chicago and lived in several cities.

Another day in Bangkok- night too- the night market scene

Another day in this bustling town.  What a difference from the sleepy town we were in near Soverato, Italy.  Another friend has appeared in this town and a group of us went out to enjoy more yellow curry crab and a night out in the night market.  ( more like meat market- and not the steak kind) Back at home I was often in bed by 10 and up by 6, my schedule has had several changes over the past few months.  In Rome, I adjusted to the mid day huge lunch followed by an equally huge nap and later nights and large meals most of the time.  This continued for most of Italy until school- no naps but my nights were now later as I discovered blogging,online books and online movies/tv.  (old habits die hard).

Now it would seem that staying out until 2am and sleeping until noon was the new for last night.  I am attending another cooking school tomorrow so an earlier night is preferred.  The night market was so intense I forgot to take photos so I will do my best to explain.  I'm embarrassed to say what shows were being offered for our viewing pleasure ( some involved ping pong balls and others darts or "lady boys") I had heard about this before but as this trip was impromptu I had conveniently parked this information deep in the dark hallways of my mind.  Until last night.  We walked through areas of stalls selling clothes, watches, t shirts , knock off purses and wallets, lighting , jewelry and other trinkets.  Most stalls repeating the wears every 4 or 5 stalls.  these stalls were along the main road and through the center of a wide side road.  These stalls were flanked by various bars and night clubs and the occasional restaurant.  It began to close down around 1 am.  at least the stalls selling .  It looked as if the bars would continue for a while.  After an interesting cab ride back to the hotel I was happy for a shower in my beautiful rain shower.  The hotel is very nice.  the room is great and a perfect size.  The bed is dreamy comfortable and the AC is perfectly cold.  All in all the hotel is a great find.  But again I have the newest set if jumping kids above my head.  Tonight going out to see a rooftop restaurant or two...

Day one Bangkok- doing pretty well so far

After a disappointment with the Culinary School in Calabria my friend Abeehru and I decided to make lemonade out of lemons.  We arrived in warm and friendly Bangkok.  I have never been here before and am pleasantly surprised with the warmth of the people every where we go here.  We began our day with a delicious lunch of fried grouper and yellow curry crab and the best iced coffee i've ever had.  We will try another school here, and plenty of culinary research - eating :)  

A view from the restaurant near the hotel

beautiful and yummy too, this came with a green papaya salad that was quite hot ( not quite rip your tongue off hot but hot !)

Yellow Curry crab

We are happy now, good food, good friendship good day!

More Venice- winter in Venice

This was a sight.  The canals of Venice frozen.

Aspects of Venice

There are many photos here I couldn't pick just a few so Ill keep the writing mostly here and captions by some photos.  Many years a go my brother and I spent a summer doing the post college summer trek.  I recall Venice and almost skipped it for sights previously unseen.  Let's just say I am so glad I went back. I must say I am thoroughly enchanted by Venice.  It was cold, I mean COLD.  I wore my long johns and wool pants and it was still COLD.  I went with a few classmates from culinary school.  We rented a great apartment well located to everything we wanted to see.  Six adults sharing one bath, we did pretty darn good.  These photos are in no particular order and are taken on my phone as I still have not fixed my "good" camera.  I think the little Blackberry is doing pretty well considering.

Canals and more canals. This place is a maze of canals.  ( I am speaking as if no one has been here just to help my descriptive process flow, I do not mean to insult anyone who has)  Per usual my traveling companion of three months and I wandered out without a plan or map and as usual discovered beauty and excitement around each turn.  We feel we should write a guide how to get lost in Italy and see everything anyway.  

Strange but typical- a quick post

For some reason there is a german family camped in the hall outside of my hotel room with all of their belongings and two young children spread all over the hallway crumpling piles of plastic bags for the past hour.  I had the opportunity to change rooms today as the original room I booked wasn't ready yesterday.  I decided to stay in this room because it was quite... go figure.  I have had a strange Karma with rooms for the past few years.  (up until now...)  if there was a banging door Ill be next to or above it, a fighting couple , jumping children on my ceiling, a party or elevator dinging... Don't know why, wish it would stop.  Maybe when I get to the point I can laugh every time it happens it will stop.  Today I am laughing and wondering... but as I had hoped for a nap, not going to happen... they are literally leaning on the wall of my room.. Im in a nice hotel too.  I'm making an assumption they are either awaiting entry to their room, lost their keys, are too hot to go out or are catching a late flight.  they did not want my help so...

But for today all I know is that I have A/C a terrifically comfortable bed and equally comfortable pillows for the first time in 3 months, I am no longer freezing my tucas off without hot water in a dumpy hotel in Calabria. It is a good day. :) My wish is for everyone to have a good day too.
 this is what my nice room looks like.. its a good day

Valentine's Day in Venice

This is a candy store window is so beautiful it deserves a large photo.

This one too wow

 Next, after a grand time wandering the streets of Venice on Valentine's day eve we enjoyed two apperativo places. Aperativo- A type of happy hour pay a price for a drink and eat from a buffet of various items such as pasta, crostini ( toasted bread with toppings), cheeses vegetables.  Our first stop was a place we visited the night before.  Standing room only and by the piece priced crostini. Topped with Baccala Montecato ( salt cured / dried cod reconstituted in milk and whipped up with cream / olive oil and parsley- like a chunky very rich mousse: cheese and onion or peperoncino marmalata, various prosciutto, sardines and anchovies.  We sang along with gondoliers to Italian classics and laughed.  So fun we went two nights in a row.

The headed to another restaurant on a hidden canal and dock near the grad canal.  The fist live music played here was a piper and drum trio.  We had bumped onto this trio 3 other times that day.  It was fun and lively and a reason to enjoy a second Aperativo.

Snow- White Carnival- Bologna

So, any of you from Chicago, or other parts with snowy winters may see this as a normal picture of a snowy airport.  This however is the Bologna, Italy airport on Feb 11, 2012.  I was on my way from Soverato , Calabria to Venice for some Carnival fun when the Rome airport closed and I opted to take a flight to Bologna and take the train the rest of the way to Venice.  This is what I arrived into in Bologna. Snow! Like over a foot.  De-icing of planes was taking place.  At this and many if not most of the airports Ive been flying to deplane down the stairs and then you are taken by bus to the terminal.. This sight was surreal, standing on the tarmac next to these large planes in the snow with bull dozers all around trying to keep up with the snow and ice.  I felt like I was in Chicago only without the benefit of inside gates.

 Bologna countryside on the way home a few days later.  Still white.

AlberoBello

I have just returned from a great journey to Bari and Alberobello what a beautiful trip.  Here are a few photos of Alberobello

Bari Italy fun friends and Little Old Lady Street

 I have just visited a few towns around Italy's Puglia region. Had a few days off from school and traveled as a group of five.  We rented a car and toured around.  Yes! A needed break.  We drove to Bari, Alberobello  and Cisternino.

  Beautiful Bari, a city of about 1 million people.  On our travel day we saw 3 different seas.  The coastline of Bari is beautiful and lined with pretty buildings as compared to the towns of Soverato which were built in the 50's with no regulations.  Bari has a feel like Chicago and I think that is why I loved it so much.  It has a beautiful Old village within a stone wall.  These buildings are white and the streets are so narrow a vespa and a person traveling opposite each other would have to squeeze by one another.

 

 As we wondered the first night the streets are lit up so it is quite bright from the white of the buildings and white stone streets.  This ancient village or "Little Old Lady Town" as we called it was bright and full of life.  We called it a special name because each street is lined with buildings that have doors that open from the street  into kitchens. These kitchens are where the little old ladies make their famous  Orecchiette

This is Angela our new friend making hers.  We watched her make large or Gigante and piccolo versions.  She was a great teacher explaining the method and even suggested a recipe and sent us to the shop for a particular cheese to grate over it.  It was a dried ricotta.  I'm glad to have attended a little language school because my attempts to speak with people make the day very interesting and they all seem to have a great laugh at my expense.  Angela was very patient with me as I asked for clarification and we used our best sign language to assist us to become fast fans of each other.  Andi took a great video I am hopeful to post.

One of the many little streets

 The town is situated along a coastline that stretches far and hosts a few small harbors as well as a large one. Bari  has a nice combination of modern and traditional.  

I just loved the feel here.  Looks a bit like Lake shore drive.

Andi and Zdenka two of my traveling buddies for this trip.  We just tried to crash a private yacht club where the views were superb. Beautiful shot by Andi a traveling buddy.

This was the deja vu of all finds.  Before I moved from Chicago I had a dream to open a place that looks just like this and serves in the same manner.  A pastry coffee and champagne place.  It has beautiful Pastries, gelato, chocolates, biscotti, and a daily selection from a savory menu for lunch or dinner.  It also has an area for a quick Italian style coffee (standing) or other areas to sit.  It stays open late night and is exactly what I had dreamed of opening.  Turns out one of the chefs just spent 12 days staying at the congress hotel and loved Chicago. Thats him to the far left.

A second area upstairs with food bar area.

the view to the back dining area

The back dining area upstairs

Fish market and restaurant.  Here we enjoyed Ricci or sea urchin.  We had been encouraged to try it by the owner of a coffee and tea shop we spent a few hours chilling out in.  We had wanted to try it before this particular day but the shop had been closed.  So we went in in the morning and told the owner it was our first time.  He piled a cake platter high with many and we kept saying " no 3 or 4"  and he would take one off then one more smiling the entire time.  Im certain we provided the equivialent of a months worth of reality TV for the family who ran this place.  The father came over to show us how to eat and with exaggerated movements gave us a lesson.  The son seemed to be so thrilled it was our first time to eat this that he brought out Prosecco.  We also saw tiny little scorpion fish and he showed us how to clean them without getting poisoned.  They were quite entertained by this merry band of tourists.

Ricci, they taste of the sea.  Like beautiful sea water and some sweetness.  we ate them like a spread and scooped them out of the shell with bread.  when i used to scuba dive in Hawaii the dive master would crack one of thee open and all of the fish would swarm around to eat it, now I know why.

 Dinner in Cisternino.  Me,  Patrick, Avi, Zdanka and Andi took the photo.

 The cool coffee shop that had coffee pairings and tea pairings, with me, Zdanka and Andi.

 For Berit, Here is one of many different hot chocolate I am experiencing this time.  It seems to be more popular this trip or it is because it is in the winter people actually know what Im asking for or even have it churning behind the coffee machine.

Happy to be traveling

Wow time flies!
I seem to have been caught in a time warp at culinary school and lacking internet access.  As it sit here atop a beautiful bluff in a rainstorm the electricity has gone out and a silence has filled the air my heater is off and I can hear the wind and the waves below.  I have been delayed in posting and tonight as long as I continue to be able to access the internet I can post.  My camera has decided to become even more temperamental so I continue to bring you mainly photos from my phone camera.  I hope that the holiday was good for all of you.  It feels like 100 years ago to me now.

Today I enjoyed a a trip to wonderful market beside the sea.  It seems that the Clementines and oranges are even more fragrant and sweet down in southern Italy.  I met many farmers, a family who has a stand of roasted nuts and dried fruits , I have a kilo of beautiful dried figs sitting next to me as I write this.  I sampled my way through this market.  Fresh cheeses, honey, fruit and vegetables.  It is fennel season, which I guess is often and the bulbs are huge.  We bought some mushrooms and were given recipes by the local women. I wondered through the market following one of my chef teachers and asked many questions and her expertise and language fluency made it a blast.  I continue to try my Italian at every opportunity, however, my classes are in english and classmates speak english so I'm not practicing mush at all.  We were given some honey from the bee keeper who told us that it is a mineral rich honey and very special as the bees penetrate into plants and vegetables to get the sap in a special way.  Again my Italian is not quite up to speed.  He has the most fragrant orange blossom honey! and I tried the wild flower honey too it is floral and gentle in flavor and because he does not heat it the flavor is almost buttery.  The wind is crazy strong right now.
I have a few photos from the  market I will post another time.  For now a few other shots.

Rain In Florence.

Still a beautiful place.

A local market in Florence, ham ham and more ham hanging up in the back. This was like the local Sams club type sized store but look at the great stuff they had. See the fresh fish below they were at this same store.

A sunny day in Florence.

The countryside behind the hotel in Florence.  This was a hilly area that had small villages dotted all over the hills.

This is a two lane road, a road cars fly down.

OH my, pasta with white truffles, this was fantastic I went back for a repeat but somehow got the black truffles .  I preferred this white.  This was truffles butter and pasta simple and perfect.  The restaurant is the Chinghale Bianco Im certain I misspelled tonight.  it is on the "other " side of the river across the Ponte Vecchio.