Apple Store!

I have missed blogging.  I have been sick for two weeks.  I thought I had a rather large computer problem but thankfully there is an Apple store!  Seems both Pam and computer are doing well.  Did you know that when a baby is born a color appropriate ribbon and announcement is placed on the door of the lucky family.  How sweet.

Parmesan and balsamic tasting

Had a great day outside of Bologna touring artisan producers of Balsamic vinegar and Parmesan Cheese.  Certain requirements make it a strict process and not all of the wheels of cheese or bottles of vinegar pass and are labels as another type of cheese or in the case of the vinegar it goes back to be aged further to reach a certain required level of flavor and acidity.

Here we are at a small agricultural school outside of Bologna where there are teachings of the traditional ways to produce various things , most specifically here Parmesan.  This school raises its own cattle and uses its own grains and grasses to supplement the feed to strict standards.  The milk is then used for the cheeses that this place produces.  We saw parmesan, fresh cheese and marscapone made in a traditional hands on way.  This man has been making parmesan for 47 years! here at this school production facility he makes 3 batches/ wheels a day.  On this day we saw him make 2.  The milk was being stirred with a large stirring device that had been lowered into the milk while the enzymes were being added to cause the milk to separate into the milk solids and the milk water.  ( non of these terms is totally accurate as my memory is not great)  This heated milk turns in this great copper vat and the man would touch the curds often to see if the texture and size was correct.  He gave us a sample to try and it had the softness and chew of a mozzarella but more flavor.  He then left it to sit while he toured us around and explained that the importance of the butter fat content.  At a certain point he decided it was ready and it ( this big ball of cheese) was gently encouraged to the surface where it was caught in cheese cloth like a hammock, held for a while to drain and stiffen a bit then cut in half and placed into the molds.  These moulds are more like a large plastic band with the imprint of the maker and particulars as required by the consortium.  It then rested while draining and eventually would be placed in salt baths 18 days of bathing with nightly drying off time.  The it would go to the waiting room for the required period of time and subsequent inspection to pass the tests to be considered Parmesan DOP.  Have a look at a few photos.

The master in his domain sharing his knowledge

the fresh cheese tables and 

the inside of one of the large vats

The master and in the background the cheese awaiting the perfect time to be cut in half and placed into the mould.  Seriously heavy , takes 2 strong men. battery died so not many photos...

Balsamico

The family, the mother and the daughters.  The large is moved onto the next smallest and so on during the aging process.  6 years is the youngest, then 8,10, 12 25 50 and 100 years.  This producer had just run out of the 100 year old that sold for 300 Euros an ounce... The 6 year old which is considered not special was so fantastic far superior to anything we get regularly at home.  It sells here for 12 euro for 2 ounces, they also have a jelly tasty!.. A big thing here is to have the older stuff over ice cream, just a few drops on plain vanilla.  Yumm

A waiting room each battalion is kept logged and marked.  The house we visited was very old and historic.  The walls of the entrance hall were painted frescoes on the walls themselves old and beautiful.

Cute little cars

So here are a few shots of little cars around Florence. I think my nephews would like these.

 3 wheeler, this truck is not very tall it is shorter than I am... 

ok, this little guy is so small Graham would hardly fit! look at the wheels 2 in front and one in back.

Just another typical sight in Rome - The Tiber river

On this gloomy day what a beautiful sight was this.  A simple stroll over one of Rome's many bridges gave me an opportunity to see this.  St. Peter's dome in the background.  Ahhh so beautiful

My lovely place in Rome- and grumpy notes on sleep disturbance

Could this be TMI, don't know .  But here are a few picts of the apartment in Rome.  Been pretty happy here overall.  Nice and large and modern.  Walls a little thin but that seems to prevail in Italy in some places.  (see below)

Several evenings I enjoyed hearing the neighbors playing with  their toddler, singing next door. As I write this from a very loud hotel with thin walls and loud floors above me . I haven't slept in days and the banging of doors and such just boggle the mind.  Is anyone aware that other people are living here???  I can actually hear the TV in the room next door word for word and the children speaking in the room above.  It is 11:35pm.  Last night I enjoyed the neighbors TV until 3am, good thing I was awake :)  - this seems to be the Karma that has (up until now....) plagued my hotel experiences of the last 7 or so years.  It has become predictable and comically irritating.  The grumpies have definitely set in.  I have gone to 3 herb stores to procure sleeping assistance.  Last nights version set my throat on fire and I was up till after 3.  Tonights version comes from an herbalist with an international reputation both for his herbal preparations and his anti wrinkle cream.  I got some of both and I'll keep you posted.

The Vatican Museums and Sistine chapel

This is a rather large succession of photographs.  Far fewer even,  than I could conceivably post of these rooms at the Vatican museums.  I am told the Vatican is not called the Vatican by Italians... But anyway, I highly recommend the early tour.  We took a small early tour by Viator. and were only 8 people in our group.  We entered the museums one hour before the public.  It was a very slow day, unusually slow we were told by the guide.  It was a great way to see the sights before the masses arrived.  These are some of the various rooms we went through.  If you have been you will remember the beauty and ornate decor of the walls themselves.  Beyond ornate.

This extremely long gallery was stunning.  Along the walls were maps of the districts around italy.  Created anciently and are very accurate even to todays standards.

 Walls like this were everywhere.  Painted by the masters and others unknown.

 Ceilings like this. Fantastic

 Floors with detailed mosaics, some brought here from Ostia Antica which I visited and posted about earlier in November.

 Walls 

A pep through a keyhole to see one of the Swiss Guards on duty.

 a "simple" corridor

 St. Peter's square, Christmas tree being set up.

Inside the basicilica, a mass was in progress so the lights were on.

The ceiling in one area at the from of the basilica.

Ceiling 

A great walking day in Piazza Del Popolo and Spagna

It may have been a bit cloudy and a little drizzly but it was a warm day and a nice one to see the Christmas season blossoming into high gear.   We walked these delightful streets with stores that were getting ready for the holiday rush.  some lovely narrow side streets and rather village like in parts.   Here are a few sights from the area.

This is 34, the restaurant we found as a recommendation form a local cooking supply store. I had a superb fettucini with a truffle sauce, my companion had a gratined gnocchi, fantastic and it arrived bubbling hot, a delicious smoked swordfish that was a salty rendition served with olive oil, avocado and pickled onions, and an Ossobucco with Polenta that was smooth and creamy.